Boatwatching

The Intrepid Jerry is happily bobbing on a municipal mooring ball in Newport Harbor, Rhode Island, after an 8-hour upwind motorsail from New London.  Once again, the Burnetts chose their place & time after casually asking the question: “I wonder what is going on around here these days?” Now they find themselves surrounded by hundreds of yachts of all shapes, sizes, and power plans, eagerly anticipating the upcoming Newport International Boat Show. It turns out that Newport, with a long history of boat racing that includes hosting The America’s Cup Race, is described as a “mecca for sailors”.  Interesting. Mel just learned this fact on the journey here in her New England Embassy Cruising Guide, only after they began their sail, which is how she prefers to learn about a place. Doing too much research ahead of time spoils the “new discovery” buzz that so many explorers seek.  Think of the thrill Mel felt as she dinghied to the dock to dine at The Black Pearl and walked by not one but three stores hocking Helly Hansen wear: “Wow, there is a lot of sailory stuff here! People should hear about this!”

Entering Newport Harbor was an experience in itself. This place is packed! Tall white masts poke out of the water in all directions, as far as the eye can see, like a Siberian forest after an ice storm. We were greeted by a Harbormaster, Paco, with a delightful Rhode Island accent. Mel and Greg were thrilled that their first mooring ball hookup in eight years went seamlessly, with compliments from Paco. While checking us in, Paco asked if it was our first time sailing into Newport. “Yes”, we said.  His jaw dropped. “But…you’re sailors! How can it be your first time??” 

Answer: We are pioneers! But instead of going TO Nebraska, we are migrating away from it…

It appears that almost every sailboat in New England is here at the moment. Accordingly, Mel will use this mooring as a good opportunity to sharpen her boatwatching skills. Boatwatching is sort of like birding.  You try to identify as many boats as you can, and sometimes you even use binoculars. Our mooring is conveniently located at the mouth of the harbor, so all day long we witness a boat parade right off our bow.  Mel ticks things off her boatwatching list. Schooner: check.  Ketch: check. Trimaran: check. Weird homemade boat with huge pilot house and tiny masts: check. A fishing boat with a wake that smells like the intestines of an exploded whale: check. Giant poweryacht with douchey name: check, check, check.

Sunsets from this harbor are magical, and so Mel will attempt to give you a sense of the atmosphere here with the pics below.  If you too want to explore Newport some day, I recommend skipping them.  Don’t want to spoil your sense of discovery!